Double Breasted Suits
The double breasted suit is tailoring with a point of view. Cut well, it is not louder than a single-breasted, only more assured.
The double breasted suit is tailoring with a point of view. Cut well, it is not louder than a single-breasted, only more assured.
Suits
The double breasted jacket has two jobs: wrap the body cleanly and stay closed while you move. In ready-to-wear it often does neither, which is why the DB is the style that benefits most from bespoke. We set the wrap, the button placement and the lapel width to your chest so the jacket fastens without pulling and hangs without gaping.
Our house DB is a six-on-two with a peak lapel that runs long and low, a soft shoulder that keeps it from looking like armour, and a slightly shorter length that balances the wider front. In a navy hopsack it is a blazer; in a chalk stripe it is a statement; in a cream linen it is the best thing you can wear to a wedding in the tropics.
The overlap of the two fronts is measured on you, so the jacket closes flat across the stomach and the lapels sit parallel.
Six buttons fastening on two is the classic; four-on-one is lower and more relaxed. Both are drafted into the pattern.
A wider, longer peak that lifts the eye. The gorge height is set to your face and shoulder line, not to fashion.
The same construction as an odd jacket: navy, olive or tobacco, worn with bespoke trousers or with denim.
Almost always, because bespoke lets us set the button stance, wrap and lapel proportions to your frame. Shorter clients wear a lower four-on-one; broader clients suit a longer peak lapel and a slightly narrower wrap.
You can, but the DB looks best fastened, which is why the fit through the waist matters so much. Ours are cut so you can sit comfortably with the jacket buttoned.
If you already own two or three single-breasted suits, a navy DB blazer with grey trousers will get more wear than another suit. If your wardrobe is young, a navy DB suit does both jobs.
Appointments
Cloth, wrap and lapel decided together at the atelier. Book a consultation.
